Paharganj receives a vast amount of adverse criticism, only a little of which it deserves I think. It is a Babel of nations, though India holds fast and dominates. Accommodation is rather more hostel than hotel and quite a few Western consumer goods can be sourced here, which is good when all you feel like eating is a digestive biscuit. Begging is rife, negotiation for anything necessary, noisome alleys about and there's a constant queue for the Metro: it could be said, with some justification, that Paharganj is the distillation, concentration of Delhi, all the bad and all the good. I love it.